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Upgrading Shocks And Tires For Stability (35-6) By Andy Thomson
Andy Offers Tips on Improving the Chevy TrailBlazer’s Towing Performance.

I bought a Chevy TrailBlazer a couple of years ago as a tow vehicle for our Jayco Jay Feather 21J. The TrailBlazer has power to spare and it has been reliable, but there are a few issues I’m having with it.

I’ve noticed the rear springs and the shocks seem to be soft. Passing vehicles make the truck sway, even without a trailer. Rebound takes three to four cycles over some road irregularities. The tires seem soft as well, and low pressure, balloon tires don't help control sway either. Finally, it loves gas at 16 mpg (city).

I spoke with a salesman at your dealership about using a Freestar as a tow vehicle, and he indicated that with modifications it would tow our trailer easily. What modifications would be needed? Our hitch uses square bars rated for 1,000 pounds.

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Mike Clark (Cambridge, ON)


Hi Mike,

If you were towing a 30-foot, light trailer, the Freestar would be substantially more stable, but a 21-foot shouldn’t be a problem for the TrailBlazer to handle with a few relatively simple changes. This would far less expensive than changing tow vehicles.

The TrailBlazer’s 4.2-litre inline six is a wonderful engine. It’s mated to the same transmission that is used in full-sized pickups that have much larger engines. It’s a great performer and has a very durable drivetrain. If you’re checking your fuel economy with the built in computer, remember that it’s US miles-per-gallon that you’re reading. 16 mpg (city) is pretty good for any SUV, and I doubt the Freestar would do much better. Changing the tires on the TrailBlazer should improve fuel economy slightly. In two or three years, we should have access to tow vehicles that will deliver dramatically better mileage.

Obviously the TrailBlazer’s suspension is tuned for a smooth ride. The good news is that it’s not difficult to give it far more control.

The soft springs shouldn’t be a problem for your trailer. In fact, they may work out well. A suspension system that combines springs slightly on the softer side with stiff shocks and tight tires will give a great deal of control without a harsh ride. If the springs are too stiff, adding more control on top of the springs makes for a stiff riding combination. If your trailer was heavier, then stiffer rear springs would be necessary.

A good set of heavy-duty gas-charged shocks will tighten the suspension up considerably. Monroe Sensa-Tracs should work very nicely.

The stock 245/70R x 16-inch tires have substantial sidewall sway. There are two ways you can improve your tires on this vehicle. One is to change your tires to 225/75R x 16-inch LTT (Light Truck Tire). This tire is a load range “D”, or eight-ply rating. It’s a stiff tire for the weight you’ll be carrying on it, and it will provide you precise handling. The downside is that it generally has a pretty hard rubber compound, meaning it’ll wear like iron but sacrifices some traction, especially on wet roads. The tire’s diameter is the same as your current tire, but performance and mileage will be better due to the reduced rolling resistance. The tire is rated to carry 65 PSI, but you would never run them that hard, 40 to 45 PSI is plenty.

The other size that can work well is a 235/60HR x 16-inch. This would be a high performance tire with a 44 or 51 PSI capacity. The rubber compound will be softer, so traction will be very good at the expense of tread life.
You need your speedometer recalibrated for this tire as it will run nine percent faster than with the originals. These will give you substantially more power when towing, and fuel mileage will be a little better. They will ride better than the light truck tires, and have more traction than your current ones.

With these two changes you’ll notice a world of difference in the handling, both towing and driving solo.

My only other concern is the hitch you’re using. It’s very stiff for a trailer this light on such a short tow vehicle. In fact, your torsion bars are stronger than the hitch receiver, so it’s likely flexing as much as the torsion bars are. The resulting effect is the trailer steers the back of the tow vehicle, instead of working in concert with the rear suspension. I would suggest a round bar hitch, where the bars are completely enclosed in the ball mount with 750-pound bars. The round bar design has more travel when you go through deep dips, and they should ride considerably better. As well, I would consider adding a good quality friction sway control.

For those of you considering a TrailBlazer or Envoy as a tow vehicle, you might want to look at the extended wheel base version. It still has a soft suspension, but the long wheelbase adds a lot of stability. A full rear-air suspension system is optional on new models, but it’s not good for towing with an equalizing hitch.

If you want an outrageous performer, you could have fun with the TrailBlazer SS, which has a 6.0-litre engine with 400 hp, 20-inch wheels with 55 series tires, and a much more controlled suspension. Too bad you can’t get the suspension package with the six-cylinder engine. (Page Top)
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