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The Almighty American Mountain Loop  (34-7)    By Garth Cane
Take your time exploring Allegheny & Appalachian regions – you might miss something.

A
heavy rainstorm passed through Toronto, flooding many areas and transforming the ravine behind our home into a lake. It was the beginning of our Allegheny/ Appalachian mountain trip, and we were anxious to test the CoPilot live Laptop 8 GPS Navigation and RV Routing System by ALK Technologies. We were not returning home. Besides, our house was one of the lucky ones that remained high and dry.

Onward and westward in New York State towards Pennsylvania. One of the KOA campgrounds we enjoyed is located at Westfield near the border between the states on the shore of Lake Erie. Across the road is Ottaway Park, where you can view a dramatic sunset as the large, red orb sinks into the lake.

Mountain LoopJust south of this is an interesting Amish country around Lake Chautauqua. While you won’t find a factory outlet for Amish treasures, a tour of the countryside will take you to homes of many Amish merchants who sell their wares to the public. These people don’t believe in using labour-saving devices. No windmills, electricity, tractors. No buttons or zippers on their clothing. They travel the roads in distinctive, black carriages pulled by horses.

Another campground you could visit there is Camp Chautauqua, on the shores of the lake, located five minutes from the Chautauqua Institute. The institute offers a nine-week, summer program full of activities with Specials in the Amphitheater including entertainers such as David Lettermen and Bob Newhart, plus Pat and Debby Boone.

In Grove City, you can take a tour of the Wendell August Forge. It was a primary influence in creating different uses for the first modernmetal-aluminum and for establishing a new industry based on hand-forging methods. Today, handcrafted items are created, some in pewter and sterling silver. Every work of Wendell August bears the mark of the master engraver who hand-cut the die. You’ll find his initials neatly hidden within each design.

Travelling south through Pennsylvania on State Route 79, you’ll enter hilly country and the Old Economy Village, just north of Pittsburgh in Ambridge – a religious settlement of German craftsmen who practised celibacy. (The village was disbanded in 1905 when the population dwindled.) Visitors who crave craft demonstrations can tour 15 original structures such as the music hall and 22-room George Rapp House.

In downtown Pittsburgh, take time to visit the Carnegie Museum of Art, the Museum of Natural History, and the Science Centre. These were donated to the city by Andrew Carnegie, a pioneer in steelmaking, using the native coal from Pennsylvania mines. On the north side of the city is the Allegheny Observatory where amateur astronomers can use the 30-inch telescope to discover the heavens. As you wander the city, be sure to stop at Station Square boutique stores in a refurbished railroad station region on the west side of the Ohio River, off West Carson Street.

While staying overnight at the Washington KOA, it’s a good time to visit the Pennsylvania Trolley Museum, a collection of streetcars from the past. If you’re in the area on Saturday night, drive your tow vehicle over to Wheeling WV to take in the evening country music show, Jamboree USA, at the Capitol Theater. It’s famous for its radio shows, heard around the country on the AM dial.
Pigeon Forge, Tennessee, is the home of Dollywood and the Dixie Stampede. Both venues were developed by Dolly Parton to create employment for people of her hometown. Dollywood is RV friendly, with huge parking areas and shuttles to take you from RV to thrilling rides. See the spectacular entertainment in numerous theatres on Showstreet, where you’ll witness displays of woodworking, blacksmiths, guitar manufacturing, plus handcrafted buggies and carriages made to order in Craftsman’s Valley.
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Can you imagine a place that can produce a four-course feast for 1,000 people, twice each evening, and still put on a spectacular horse show? Parton’s stampede can. For each meal, cooks prepare 1,000 whole rotisserie chickens, and nearly 250 pounds of boneless pork tenderloin, for great southern dinners.

As for the show, 32 types of horses, from Belgian draft to quarter, compete in the battle of skills between north and south. And diners marvel at the power of the buffalo herd as it stampedes around the arena. Performances range from Roman Riding, during which two horses move side by side, with one rider standing astride both horses, to barrel racing requiring tight turns and breakneck speeds.

We made our way through Gatlinburg over the Newfound Gap, Indian Gap, Right Hand Gap, and Luftee Gap to Cherokee at the Southern boundary of the Smoky Mountain National Park. This is a real climb for an RV and requires the use of some lower gears on the steep mountain passes. Cherokee is an Indian Reservation occupied by 11,000 members of the Eastern Band of the Cherokee Indians that has made this area their home for centuries.

Leading to the Biltmore House in Asheville, we drove Highway 19 with its steep, narrow, winding sections. Completed in 1895, the house covers four acres, all under one roof, with 250 rooms, 35 bedrooms, 65 fireplaces, an indoor pool, bowling alley, plus priceless art and antiques. It’s still the largest, privately owned home in America. The estate keeps guests amused for days with special events throughout the year, outdoor adventures, food and wine tasting, specialty seminars, and its accessibility to the Asheville area.

Next was Petersburg in Virginia. Civil War buffs will want to visit the Petersburg National Battlefield, where 10 months of trench warfare sapped the strength of General Robert Lee’s Confederate Army, and led to the downfall of Richmond. To the east of Petersburg, you’ll find Colonial Virginia, host to restored villages of Williamsburg and Jamestown. Along Interstate 95 is Fredericksburg on the Rappahannock River. This was George Washington’s boyhood home. By the end of the Civil War, it was desolate, with shelled homes and dead people buried in the streets. The intense fighting resulted in the loss of 65,000 Union and 40,000 Confederate soldiers.

Soon we discovered not all of America’s wide-open spaces are outdoors. The Luray Caverns consist of 64 acres of underground caves. You can wander along smooth, well-lit walkways through massive chambers measuring 30 to 140 feet in height, containing a variety of formations in natural color. The enormous columns and crystal-clear pools took millions of years in the making.

Next, Washington DC. For our visit to the Capitol and Annapolis area, we stayed at the city’s KOA. We wanted to see the White House, but security instructed us to apply at the Canadian Embassy for permission four months ahead of time. If you’re lucky enough to get passes to see the White House, they can be picked up at the Visitors Centre on the Ellipse. It’s best to park your RV at the campground and take either a shuttle or your car to visit the centre of the city. Parking is difficult, so take a good pair of shoes and be prepared to hoof it.

The next day was spent visiting Annapolis, home of the U.S. Naval Academy where midshipmen prepare to become officers. Tours of the 338-acre Academy are available. Main Street displays historic buildings, shops and pubs. The waterfront has great seafood restaurants, along with the lure of sailing ships.

We drove around the City of Baltimore on the 695 Bypass. This is like taking your RV to sea as you drive over a three-mile-long bridge over the Chesapeake Bay, which allows large boats to navigate the harbour. The USS Constellation is moored at Pier One, the last all-sail Civil War warship remaining afloat. The National Aquarium on Pratt Street allows you to come face to face with at least 10,000 creatures that live in or around the water. At the Decoy Museum on Giles Street in Havre De Grace, hunters marvel at the collection of decoys and can view carving demonstrations. It’s easier if you drive your RV around the outside of many cities, then drive your tow car to explore downtown areas.

We used Highway 287 to detour around the traffic of New York City with our motorhome, and arrived at the Newburg KOA on the north end. We prefer driving up the east side of the Hudson River from I-287 on Highway 9, which takes us through many small towns including Ossining and Peekskill – there’s less traffic. From there, the campground operates shuttle buses every day into the core of the city. That’s where the action is.

Soon we experienced the spectacular route 100 in Vermont as it wound through all the small villages instead of using turnpikes. This led us to Stowe, one of the original ski areas of the Green Mountain State. When we want to visit this charming mountain town, we park our motorhome at the Goldbrook Campground on the south side, just past Ben & Jerry’s Ice Cream Factory. This is a good base for touring the area in your tow vehicle or towed car.

Then you can make dinner reservations at the Trapp Family Lodge. The Von Trapp family escaped from Austria during the Second World War and emigrated to Stowe where they established this unique mountain lodge. I always feel like singing songs from The Sound of Music when I stand on nearby hills.

Starting in the centre of town, there’s a five-mile scenic recreation path for walking and biking. Mount Mansfield is the highest peak in Vermont at 4,395, feet with 11 ski lifts, along with 480 skiable acres of trails. If you travel to the peak during the summer in a gondola, you can see for 50 to 70 miles. If your tow vehicle is in excellent shape, you might like to drive the Stowe Auto Toll Road with its steep roads and sharp, winding curves. Park the car and take the long, difficult trail all the way to the top of the mountain.

For the remainder of the trip, we experienced good weather and high gas prices all the way back to Toronto. Total expenses came to $1 per mile including fuel, food, entertainment and campground fees – not a significant increase when compared to last year. 
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