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Chuffing Through The Gatineau Valley (34-3)   By James Stoness
The wail of the mighty steam train is almost a fading memory in Canada. It’s becoming more difficult to find locations where you can see the spoked wheels, the thrashing drivers and unmistakable coal-black smoke pouring from the stack. It’s difficult, but not impossible.

Gatineau Valley-1The Hull-Chelsea-Wakefield steam train provides the opportunity you need to slip back through time and ride the rails through south-western Quebec. The Hull Depot is located a few minutes across the river from Ottawa. Once you are aboard, the train slowly works its way out of town with lots of whistle blowing as it rumbles over the many level crossings. Then you begin to follow the shores of the beautiful Gatineau River. Sit back and relax, as for the next 64 kilometres the train climbs and twists through the forest revealing distant views of the hills across the river, or sometimes it’s just the wall of trees that almost totally surrounds you.

Local businessmen along with several train lovers recognized that an operating excursion steam train in the Ottawa area would be popular, and they purchased the old line running from Gatineau to Wakefield before the tracks were ripped up. Later the Gauthier family purchased the company and breathed new life into it with some new ideas.

In 1992 they purchased engine 909, but the project was almost doomed at the very beginning when a few environmentalists fought against it, listing among their complaints, smoke and the potential for fires along the route from the cinders. To accommodate the complaints, the engine was converted to burn oil, in order to reduce the smoke pollution. Built in 1907, this Swedish locomotive is certainly older than most of the passengers it hauls. It’s not quite the same as watching the fireman shovel coal to keep the steam pressure up, and seeing the cinders and smoke belch from the stack, but the trip is still a great experience regardless.

Riding the rails behind a steam train is different. It’s not a trip you have to make, but it is a trip you want to make – a matter of nostalgia for some, a new experience for others. It’s a relaxing, comfortable way to spend a few hours.

As well as the day trips to Wakefield, the line offers special trips including the Sunset Dinner Train, where the beautiful scenery outside is accompanied by excellent dining fare and fine music. On this trip you are pampered. You come aboard the ‘Club Riviera” car with an offering of champagne and hors d’oeuvres to be later followed by the exquisite five-course dinner, not brought in, but cooked right here, onboard your train.

Some of the packages include one or two nights accommodations, and chances to visit some of the local attractions such as the Canadian Museum of Civilization, sightseeing cruises on the Ottawa River, sightseeing tour through Canada’s Capital and lunch at the Mackenzie King Estate in Gatineau Park.

Many tourists enjoy the stopover in the quiet town of Wakefield almost as much as they enjoy the ride that brought them there. The many craft shops draw the visitor into a world of unique art and design. This is a great place to shop, and if you wish, you might book an overnight at the Wakefield Mill Inn – perhaps in one of its rooms that overlook the waterfall.

Gatineau Valley-2Wakefield marks the end of the line, so you have the rare opportunity to witness the massive locomotive turned around by hand on the manually-operated turntable. Once the engine is carefully balanced on the turntable it is easily pushed by hand, turning it in a circle until it is pointed back home. This is one of the most-photographed events on the trip. The engine then slips over to the water tower and takes on a couple thousand gallons, destined to become the steam propellant force for the return trip.

You might combine a visit to the popular Gatineau Park with a visit to the Wakefield Train. The park is only a 15-minute drive from Ottawa and encompasses 36,000 hectares of glacier shaped Canadian Shield. The roads and trails meander through this rugged scenic land providing you with some of the best views in the east. Camping is also available with Philippe Lake, having 250 campsites.

For those of you who enjoy the outdoors, and want to enjoy a relaxing trip behind an old steam engine, the Wakefield Train is an experience waiting for you to try.
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