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Oh for the thrill of the open road, following in
the footsteps of the pioneers!
You’ve planned for months to create the perfect family
RV adventure, scheduled visits to scenic and historic
points of interest, reserved campsites for each evening
along the route, and booked a week’s accommodation
at “Rustic Acres”… but there’s a nagging doubt hovering
over the trip… what if the campsite isn’t really what
you had in mind?
Over the years, our road test teams have had the
opportunity to visit hundreds of campgrounds. Generally
speaking, the facilities fall into three basic categories:
rustic, comfortable, and resort caliber.
 Basic
backwoods logic applies to the selection of a suitable
site within any campground. You should always look
for a spot that is level, and neither at the highest
point in the park, where wind and lightning may pose
problems during inclement weather, nor the lowest
point, where even a brief rainstorm may result in
flooding. You must locate your resources at each campsite,
and learn to position your campfire in such a way
as to prevent smoke from entering your sleeping quarters,
or sparks from igniting a fire in the surrounding
area. You will want to stow your provisions away from
the marauding raccoons and red squirrels. You will
want to locate a campsite away from standing water,
or places where biting insects are likely to proliferate.
These are the underlying considerations that apply
whether we are hiking into the backwoods, or choosing
a campsite for a luxury motorhome.
Years ago, when we learned the skills of rustic camping,
our favorite manual for basic wood lore was Bradford
Angier’s How to Survive in the Woods. Several
of the experienced campers on staff carried paperback
editions of this parkland primer, spending countless
hours poring over the words of wisdom. This guide
has been expanded in a 2001 edition from Black Dog
and Leventhal Publishers, New York, titled How To
Stay Alive In The Woods, complete with all the information
you will need to live off the land, catch and cook
your own food, create shelter with only the most basic
tools, and orient yourself to return safely from the
wilderness. Now let’s be realistic – this is far more
information that the modern RV camper will ever need
– but it is fascinating reading, especially for youngsters
who have never ventured away from the big city. And
adventure is what it’s all about.
Picking The Perfect Campsite
RV families whose love of the great outdoors was nurtured
through hiking and tenting excursions will tell you
that the only real “camping” experience comes during
a sojourn as far from the influence of civilization
as possible. For these hardy folk, a rustic campsite
with only the most basic amenities is the ideal location.
They will happily set up their tent or RV and proceed
to live off the land. No electricity, no running water,
nada. Some of the campgrounds listed in this issue
of RV Lifestyle magazine’s National Campground Directory
fall into this category.
There are some campers who contend that the ideal
campsite should be accessible only by hiking or canoeing
to the area. Does this stop the intrepid RV camper?
Not likely. We know many families who use their RV
to travel to the end of a country road, and then backpack
the remainder of the way to their preferred campsite.
To those hardy souls we wish a safe journey, and we’ll
leave a light on so they can find their way home.
For those campers who have evolved past the stage
of sleeping in a tent on the cold, damp forest floor,
we offer the following tips for the selection of an
RV campsite.
Begin with the same basic concepts outlined above,
and add to your list as appropriate for your RV.
When selecting your campsite, keep in mind that the
access roads may be subject to the effects of heavy
rain. Your ideal campsite will be high and dry, and
accessible by gravel or paved roads. You will require
a site large enough to accommodate your RV, and tow
vehicle as appropriate. For larger rigs, a “pull-through”
site is the most convenient, especially if you are
short on help for tricky parking maneuvers.
Whether your campsite provides hook-ups or not, you
must be aware of the physical dimensions required
to accommodate your vehicle. Watch for trees and overhanging
limbs that could interfere with your RV awning, air
conditioner, television antenna or satellite dish.
Make sure that your slide-out sections can extend
without being blocked by trees, and that you will
have access to all of the storage compartments. In
extremely hot weather try to select a site with shade
trees, and pick a site that will keep the access panel
for your refrigerator out of the hot afternoon sun.
Once all of these characteristics have been met, you
are ready to check out the locations of your RV hook-ups.
Even campgrounds that are just one notch above the
rustic category will generally provide one or more
of the “three-way” hook-ups used by RV campers, namely
water, sewer, and electric power. When selecting your
site, keep in mind the relative locations of your
water and sewer connections, and the length of your
hoses and extensions. In general, we try to position
the RV so that we can reach the sewer hook-up with
no more than the standard 10-foot hose, and one extension
hose. We carry a special cradle device that supports
the sewer hose at a progressively lower height, until
it touches the ground near the sewer hook-up. We always
make sure that the sewer hose fits snugly into the
campsite fitting – there’s nothing worse than a sewer
hose spill on a hot summer evening!
The potable water hose (you know, the white one
that your RV dealer recommended) should run in a straight
line between the tap and your RV, with any excess
hose coiled out of the way in the shade under your
RV. Your electrical hook-up is easier to extend, if
necessary, as long as you have the proper gauge RV
wire, and appropriate adapters. Some of the better-equipped
campgrounds offer cable television and telephone hook-ups,
and these wires are the least costly and easiest to
extend if the connection is at the far edge of the
campsite. In most cases, the campgrounds offering
these facilities will either rent or sell the appropriate
cables if needed. (Page
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On The Level
While most RV campsites are reasonably level, even
a few degrees of inclination can result in reduced
efficiency of the water system, the refrigerator,
and the air conditioner. Experienced RVers carry several
two-inch by 10-inch by 12-inch boards to provide a
solid pad so that the leveling jacks don’t sink into
the ground or damage the asphalt at the campsite.
The first time we set-up an RV we use a carpenter’s
level to guide the positioning of special stick-on
RV levels, which are positioned strategically at the
corners of the unit, where they can be seen as we
adjust the leveling jacks. A bubble level placed on
the flat bottom shelf of the refrigerator is used
to confirm that the appliance is level with the frame
of the vehicle.
During the course of a few days, your RV may settle
a bit, so you might want to check the levels from
time to time, and adjust the jacks accordingly.
Water, Water Everywhere!
There are a few other considerations that you should
be aware of before connecting your RV to the campground
water supply. Of primary concern these days is the
quality of the water itself. The RV campsite with
three-way hook-ups may provide potable water, but
many campers prefer to use bottled water for cooking,
and use the campground water source for bathing and
general purposes. While some may argue that the rural
water supply is less likely to be polluted than the
tap water in a major North American city, the campground
water supply should be filtered for use in your RV.
There is also likely to be concern for the pressure
in the campground water supply. You will want to equip
your RV with a pressure regulator to maintain 40 PSI
or less in the RV water system, to avoid damage to
the vehicle’s plumbing components. Low water pressure
in a campground is a common situation, and can be
handled by filling your vehicle’s water tank, and
using the 12-volt demand water pump to keep the shower
flowing with suitable force.
If you haven’t used the RV since the previous summer,
chances are very good that your water system drainage
outlets are open, or you may have antifreeze compound
in the system. Inspect the plumbing to see that it
is watertight, and drain the antifreeze if necessary.
It is also a good idea to check for leaks in the
water system before heading out on that first trip.
Your RV dealer can use compressed air to pressure-test
the system for you at the beginning of the season,
or you can purchase a special fitting and use a bicycle
pump to do the simple test yourself. It is well worth
your effort, and the expense is minimal.
Your RV sewer system should be treated with appropriate
holding tank chemicals, and the best practice is to
empty the tank only when it is nearing capacity, or
when it is time to hit the road. In this way, your
sewage will be treated before it is dumped into the
campground septic system, which is the most environmentally
responsible method of disposal. Always dump the black
water (sewage) holding tank first, close the valve,
and then dump the gray water (shower & kitchen sink
water) holding tank. The soapy water will help rinse
the sewer hose before you stow it in the appropriate
compartment.
Please keep in mind that some detergents and anti-bacterial
soaps will affect the balance of chemicals in the
RV park septic system, and follow the recommendations
of the campground to the letter. (Page
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Power To The People
Your RV’s 120-volt electrical system is designed for
either 30 or 50-amp service. Please be sure to mention
to your campground staff if you require 50-amp service,
as this may require that you select a site in a specific
area of the park. If this level of electrical service
is not available, you can reduce your requirements
by leaving some of the high drain electrical devices
off during your stay in that campground – in other
words, don’t run your electric heater in cold weather
(what electric heater, you say – the one in the front
closet of course – leave it at home and use the RV
furnace for heat). By the same token, don’t run both
roof air conditioners at the same time, if your vehicle
is so equipped – use one of the roof air units, and
invest in a good 12 volt RV fan, like the Cool Breeze
model available at your local RV dealership.
If your RV trips a circuit breaker, turn off your
electrical appliances before resetting the breaker,
and limit the number of appliances you run at one
time. If you blow the fuse at the electrical hook-up,
don’t replace it with anything other than the same
amp rated fuse that was in the circuit when you arrived
at the park. Better still, ask your campground staff
to take a look, and let them replace the fuse.
Homeward Bound
Like all good things in life, the RV vacation ultimately
draws to a close. Don’t let the hectic last minute
packing get in the way of common sense! Before moving
your RV you have to retract all slide-outs, antennas,
and miscellaneous components, disconnect all systems,
stow all hoses and cables, and make sure that your
RV is cleared to travel. It may seem obvious, but
amazingly, people drive off while still hooked up
every year.
We have a set routine to make sure that we don’t
damage our RV, or embarrass ourselves in the campground.
Keep in mind that it is illegal in most states and
provinces to travel while the LP gas system is in
use. Turn off your LP gas appliances first, and then
close the main LP supply valve. If your refrigerator
operates on 12-volt current, it may automatically
switch over, or you can add this to your pre-trip
checklist.
Make sure that you have cleared the way for all of
these movements – for example, your slide-out sections
must be clear of any obstructions inside the vehicle,
and outside. Once you retract the slides use the recommended
travel locks to secure them for the trip. You would
be surprised to know how often people try to drive
home with the leveling jacks still in the lowered
position. This really serves no practical purpose,
and can cause all kinds of damage to the RV and surrounding
area (and egos).
Check above, below, and all around the RV before
you put the key in the ignition. Then check the campsite
for all the gear and possessions you may have left
behind.
The best suggestion we have is to take a set of clothespins,
label each with the name of an RV system or component,
and pin them to a clipboard by the driver’s seat.
As you stow each component for travel, you can take
the clothespin off the clipboard, and put it in the
glove box.
Sound complicated? You’ll be surprised at how quickly
you get the hang of the RV set-up procedure. Just
walk around the vehicle and check off the various
systems as you go… then have your better half take
another look… you’ll probably save the cost of a TV
antenna repair, a water hose, or the barbecue you
forgot to stow in the trunk! (Page
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