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Outlaws, legends and fools
all came like moths to a flame, drawn together in a bid
for a fortune. The flame was gold and it consumed all mesmerized
by its glow. The stage was set for a series of melodramas
with their plots to be determined by fate. The backdrop
was the beautiful "Paha Sapa" or "Hills of
Black", as the Sioux called them, a land sacred and
far removed from the rigors of everyday life. This peace
and tranquility was shattered by an ambitious army officer,
his flowing yellow hair blown by a warm summer breeze.
Lt.
Col. George Armstrong Custer's place in history overshadows
his role in the discovery of gold in the Black Hills. His
expedition of 1874 was to gather information but its scope
was widened to seek out the gold rumored to be there. With
Custer's confirmation of the presence of gold, the rush
soon followed, a deliberate violation of the treaty signed
six years earlier giving the Sioux control of their lands,
free from incursions by the white man.
With the discovery of gold near Deadwood in 1876, hoards
of prospectors swarmed into the area to stake their claim.
One of the eager arrivals was James Butler Hickok (Wild
Bill) who had worked his way west as a gunman and a marshal.
He reasoned if he could make a strike in Deadwood, he would
return to his bride of two weeks and retire. Even if the
claim did not pan out, he could mine the miners at the gambling
tables at which he was most proficient.
One day Wild Bill, sitting at a poker game in Saloon Number
Ten, allowed himself to sit with his back to an open rear
door. A sleazy little man, by the name of Jack McCall, crept
from behind and shot him in the back of the head, escaping
out the rear door. The dying Hickok fell forward spilling
pairs of black Aces and eights on the table- a combination
that forever would be known as "the dead man's hand."
Today,
Old Saloon Number Ten bills itself as the only museum in
the world with a bar. After two shots of red-eye and a walk
through sawdust, past walls and rafters jammed with artifacts,
photographs and even Wild Bill's wedding licence you may
be hard pressed to argue the point. You can join throngs
of travelers at Hickok's grave site in Mount Moriah Cemetery.
Nearby are the final resting places of other legends of
Deadwood including Calamity Jane. The next century would
deal Deadwood its share of unlucky hands. Fires and floods
took their toll but the gambling crackdown in 1947 dealt
the final blow. The quaint Wild West business district was
crumbling, drab and deserted. Legalized gambling returned
in 1989 with 80 gaming halls lining the streets. Millions
of dollars were poured into renovating a town that is now
listed as a National Historic Landmark.
The real fun in Deadwood is often found in just roaming
the streets, watching the tourists and stepping in and out
of doorways. The Bullock Hotel is one of the finest examples
of historic restoration in South Dakota. The cutstone building
is purportedly haunted by Bullock's ghost. Guests who stay
there may have a face-to-face encounter with Kevin Costner,
who stays at the Bullock during frequent visits to Deadwood
where he and his brother own The Midnight Star casino. Costner's
costumes, worn in nearly all of his films, are on display
here but it is Jake's, his four-diamond restaurant, that
serves up rib-eye with mushrooms sauteed in amaretto. The
First Gold Hotel also attracts huge crowds, including thousands
of Canadians, each year because of its good food and friendly
dealers.
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(Read full story in Vol.3 No.5) (Page
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