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Normally, when I head to Waterton-Glacier International
Peace Park, which straddles the Alberta-Montana border,
it's to fly across the inky-black Waterton Lake on my windsurfer,
or hurtle myself down a single-track mountain bike trail,
or to climb to the top of a towering mountain.
 When
my husband took me touring in our camper van one weekend,
I was limited to more sedate activities, thanks to a broken
leg. I was truly grounded, however this turned out to be
just fine.
With its dramatic ice-capped mountains that rise abruptly
from gentle prairie grasslands and frequent wildlife spottings,
Waterton-Glacier Park is an excellent RV destination for
sightseeing. As we headed southwards towards Waterton, the
first attraction we saw was the Bison Paddock where we observed
a small herd. The bison are maintained as a reminder of
the herds that once roamed the prairies. We drove the scenic
highways and occasionally my husband hiked short trails
while I hobbled around on even shorter pathways on my crutches.
While making our way along the entrance road, which leads
into Waterton's town site, we spotted an osprey nesting
on an abandoned power line at the wildlife-viewing pullout.
I got to thinking that, while we had seen plenty of wildlife,
we didn't have any close encounters with grizzlies - this
time. On a previous trip near Mount Crandell we almost walked
into a mother grizzly and two cubs hidden in the trees just
below the summit (we bid a hasty retreat and have carried
pepper spray when hiking ever since).
A short detour off this entrance road leads to the Prince
of Wales Hotel, overlooking Upper Waterton Lake. This well-known
Waterton landmark was built in 1927 and is a fine place
for a typical English afternoon tea.
From Waterton, the 16-kilometre Akamina Parkway heads to
Cameron Lake. Along the way we passed "Oil City", the site
of the first oil producing well in Western Canada. Sadly,
a flourishing oil town never materialized here as the oil
flow dwindled to practically nothing by 1904, a few years
after the well was drilled. (I chuckled, as I remembered
the last time we cycled the Akamina Parkway. A park warden
had cautioned us about an ornery black bear charging vehicles.
This was very unusual, but she was simply protecting two
tiny cubs, which we spied in the bushes on our descent.)
At Cameron Lake, a glacial alpine lake, there's a 1.6-kilometre
trail along the west shore that leads to a small peninsula
and viewpoint. Alternatively, a 4.3-kilometre trail leads
off the Parkway through open sub-alpine meadows to Lineham
Falls, a waterfall that tumbles over a 100-metre cliff.
Another great drive is the 15-kilometre Red Rock Parkway
that leaves the entrance road just past the 18-hole golf
course. The parkway crosses rolling prairies, meanders through
mountain meadows speckled with multi-colored flowers and
provides fine views of Waterton's highest peak, Mount Blakiston
(2940 metres). Bear sightings are common along this route.
This time we spotted a female black bear and her two cubs
(funny how there always seem to be two) grazing high on
the slopes. (Page Top)
This road provides access to the Crandell Campground and
a trailhead to Crandell Lake (a rocky 2.4-kilometre hike).
It ends at Red Rock Canyon, an appropriately named canyon
that was formed by years of erosion exposing iron-rich red
rocks. From here, an easy 0.7-kilometre nature trail follows
the canyon, or there's a one-kilometre walk to Blakiston
Falls.
We often mountain bike along the Snowshoe Trail to the
Goat Lake junction, a relatively flat ride along a well-worn,
wide, gravel and dirt road. On the descent down this Parkway,
watch for moose at the beaver pond overlook, just one kilometre
before the entrance road.
In the town site, the campground beside Upper Waterton
Lake is a great spot for relaxing in the evening sun. Usually,
mule deer roam the campsite and in August visitors will
often see spotted fawns. The campground is located within
easy walking distance of tennis courts, several restaurants,
clothing, gift shops and the Waterton Heritage Center -
a good rainy day option offering an overview of the area's
geology and natural history. You can also rent two-seater
bicycles to cruise the town or rent motorized scooters for
riding the scenic highways.
While summit bagging was beyond me this trip, I did "crutch"
my way along the 3.2-kilometre paved trail beside the lake.
I could only sit still so long, even with a broken leg.
 I
started from the harbor (the departure point for a two-hour
excursion boat cruise that tours the shores of Upper Waterton
Lake) and ended at picturesque Cameron Falls situated behind
the town. On windy days, strollers are often fascinated
by the spectacle of brightly coloured windsurfing sails
flashing across the lake.
Meanwhile my husband climbed the Bear's Hump, a short but
steep (2.4-kilometre return) climb from the Information
Centre to a windswept ledge overlooking the length of Upper
Waterton Lake into Montana.
Starting out along the 77-kilometre Chief Mountain Highway
to St. Mary in Glacier, we sighted the relatively rare Sandhill
Crane at Maskinonge Lake. Besides other birds, this is a
good place to hear the bugle calls of bull elk during their
mating season in the fall, but beware; they can be dangerous.
This road crosses the Canada/U.S. border 30 kilometres
from Waterton (remember your passports) and provides magnificent
views of Chief Mountain and Mount Cleveland, the highest
mountain peaks in the park (3190 metres). (Page
Top)
The piece-de-resistance is the 83-kilometre Going-to-the-Sun
Road. It bisects Glacier National Park and crosses the Continental
Divide at Logan Pass. This national landmark was completed
in 1932 after eleven years of engineering wizardry (in many
places the road has been blasted into solid rock walls).
It winds westward from St. Mary Lake to Lake McDonald, through
amazing mountain vistas, cascading waterfalls, and areas
blossoming with multi-hued wildflowers and offers plenty
of opportunity for viewing wildlife. There are numerous
roadside exhibits, pullouts and overlooks. (*Drivers note:
the road is narrow, has blind corners, tight hairpin bends
and sharp drop-offs. Be sure to stick to the speed limit.)
To avoid congestion, vehicle size restrictions are in
effect between Sun Point and Avalanche Creek. Vehicles longer
than 21 feet and wider than 8 feet are prohibited. Alternative
transportation is offered by Sun Tours or Glacier Park Inc.
My husband hiked to the Hidden Lake Overlook, a five-kilometre
return trip crossing open flower-laden meadows on a boardwalk
that skirts the base of Mount Clements. The last time I
was there, I spent hours watching a mountain goat and kid.
Short walks include a steep 60-metre trail into Sunrift
Gorge, with an unexpected view of a hidden waterfall.
I managed somehow, on crutches, to alarm fellow hikers.
"You'll break your other leg if you're not careful,Ó was
the general consensus.
At the Logan Pass Visitor Center, I sat in the sun, searching
for hoary marmots, pika and ptarmigan. I scanned the slopes
of Mount Clements for mountain goats. My patience was rewarded
- I glimpsed two high on the skyline.
Finally, as I struggled tiredly around The Trail of the
Cedars, a wheelchair-accessible 0.8-kilometre loop through
500-year-old western red cedars and gardens of ferns, someone
exclaimed, "You must really want to do this". Yes, I really
did want to do this, even with a cast.
Being on the road, especially the Going-to-the-Sun Road,
was great. And maybe next time, I'd be able to try some
other activities, like horseback riding, canoeing, fishing...
(Page Top)
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