In recent years, three of our travelling friends have had engine fires in their motorhomes. One class A motorhome recently had a transmission cooler installed and apparently one of the hose connections was not tightened securely. While driving up a hill, the hose connection gave way, sending transmission fluid over the hot exhaust pipes. Luckily, this occurred across the road from a fire station, so the fire was quickly brought under control, but not until most of the wiring in the engine compartment was destroyed. The coach filled with smoke and as a result all of the rugs and upholstery had to be replaced to get rid of the smell.
            Some engine fires have been caused by a leak in the radiator allowing a solution of water and antifreeze to spray onto the hot engine. The water content evaporates rapidly leaving the pure ethylene glycol concentrate to ignite and burn away along with any flammable parts in the engine compartment.
            Two of our friends had their motorhomes catch fire while stopped at intersections. The gas lines in the engine had become perforated due to corrosion from hydrogenated fuels. These fuels attack the metal fuel lines in older motorhomes and trucks from the inside to the outside. While they were driving at highway speed there was enough air flow to blow the gas fumes away from the engine compartment, but when they came to a stop the gas fumes were ignited by the hot exhaust system. One of their wives told me that she felt heat against her left leg as she touched the dog house of their class C. Moments later she barely had time to grab her purse and quickly exit the passenger door before the motorhome burst into flame.                                             
            This year I attended a seminar on fire safety conducted by Mac McCoy, who does seminars on behalf of the Recreational Vehicle Safety and Education Foundation of which I am a Board member.  Mac, “The Fire Guy” is a retired Fire Service Training Coordinator for the State of Oregon.  Over the years he has conducted fire safety seminars for fire departments, military groups, and organizations like the Boy Scouts. In 1998 Mac took his “Fire & Life Safety” show to RV rallies across the country teaching RV'ers how to stay fire safe while on the road. 
            RV fires can start from many causes, including overheated manifolds, grease, oil, and dirt buildup on the engine and transmission, electrical malfunctions, battery problems, and spontaneous combustion caused by materials stored in the RV.

Be Prepared!
            Mac is a firm believer in prevention and preparation. Most RVs have a combination smoke and carbon monoxide detector mounted on the ceiling of the kitchen area. Unfortunately, many RV'ers that we have talked to tell us that they have taken the battery out of the smoke detector to prevent false indications while they are cooking. This removes any safety margin you have if a fire should occur, or if some material started to smoulder, producing noxious gases. You should have more than one smoke detector in a mid to large size RV – one in the bedroom area, and one in the kitchen area.
            Carbon monoxide from incomplete combustion is even more dangerous than smoke in any confined space – colourless, odorless, and tasteless; CO is a silent killer that even your pet poodle won’t be able to detect. You have to have a carbon monoxide detector in your RV – and if your unit came with one of these devices, you have to be aware that the detector has a lifespan – the expiry date will be clearly labeled on the case. Unlike the smoke detectors that require a battery change every year (many people make it a birthday regimen), the carbon monoxide detectors cannot be recharged or refreshed – when their time comes, they must be replaced.
            Smoke detectors also need to be replaced, most brands specify every five years.
            Detection is phase one – but when you are in the middle of nowhere, it is a good idea to be prepared to at least make an effort to combat a small fire, before it gets out of hand.            In order to pass safety standards, most RVs built today only have one fire extinguisher, generally mounted near the doorway. If you were in bed and a fire started in the kitchen or in the front area of your RV, it would be almost impossible to reach that fire extinguisher. Mac recommends at least four fire extinguishers in your RV. One in the bedroom, one in the kitchen, one near the engine compartment, and one near the door or in your tow vehicle, so that can it be accessed from outside.
            The first rule of RV firefighting is to save lives first, and property second. You have a decision to make. Is this a fire that can be put out with a fire extinguisher, or is this a serious problem that you need to flee? A fire may smoulder for quite a long time before it breaks out. During this time, noxious fumes can be produced that could prevent you from waking up. This is the time when a smoke detector in the bedroom is most effective.             When flames break out, you have only a few seconds to knock down the fire before it spreads to the rest of the RV. Since the inside of the RV is built with wood paneling that contains glue, fire will rapidly travel the length of the coach. Rugs and upholstery materials also contain glue that is extremely flammable. You have less than 90 seconds to make a decision whether to fight the fire or get out. Mac recommends a “GET AWAY BAG” near the door or fire escape window, containing your passport, a credit card, and $100 dollars in cash. Too many drivers take their wallet out when driving and place it on the dashboard so that they don’t have to sit on it. In a panic, the wallet may be momentarily lost in the shuffle. Your first duty is to get out of the vehicle, not take precious time to look for a purse or things you want to save - even your pets. Clothes, toys and pets can be replaced - not human lives. 
            If the fire occurs between you and the doorway, you will need to use the escape window in the bedroom to get out safely. There are two red clips at the bottom of the window that will release the frame so that you can climb out. Every bedroom has a comforter or blanket on the bed that can be used to make it easier to escape. Have your husband stand on one end of the blanket inside the RV while you throw the other end out the window. Now use this to slide down to the ground. The wife should stand on the ground facing the wall as the husband climbs down over her shoulder.
            The emergency exit must be less than 36" above the floor with the strength to hold a person who weighs as much as 310 pounds. Its size must be at least 17 x 24" - this is large enough for the biggest person to exit safely. A fire extinguisher of 5BC rating mounted within 24" of the door is required for a travel trailer, and an extinguisher with a rating of 10BC is required for a motorized unit.
            Mac showed me a photo of a rear engine class A motorhome in which a fire started in the engine compartment preventing the use of the escape window in the bedroom. The driver noticed a lack of power and pulled over to the side of the road to investigate. When he stopped, he did not realize that his entry door was blocked by the safety railing on the side of the road, preventing it from being opened. Unfortunately, he could not restart the engine to move the RV, and other motorists had to break the windshield to get the passengers out. By this time they had inhaled a great deal of smoke. Given the opportunity to pull over in the event of a fire being detected while you are in motion, try to stop in a place where your vehicle will not ignite anything, and be sure to avoid obstructions that will prevent passengers from exiting the vehicle.

Choosing a fire extinguisher
            The letters ABCDK are used on fire extinguishers to identify the classes of fires that they should extinguish. The number tells how much area they cover in square feet for liquids and cubic feet for solids. BC type dry powder extinguishers are the most common in RVs. The material inside is non-toxic sodium bicarbonate. A 5BC is required for a non-motorized RV no matter what type of construction. Whether you have a class A, B, or C motorhome, only a 10BC fire extinguisher is required by law. Of course, there is nothing stopping you from upgrading to a larger capacity fire extinguisher. You can test your 5 or 10BC extinguisher by dropping it on its bottom a short distance - it should bounce.
            The second most common fire extinguisher in motorhomes is the ABC dry chemical extinguisher that contains monoammonium phosphate. This is a hazardous material that is toxic and it becomes very corrosive when heated. It is also difficult to clean as it melts to the surfaces that it comes in contact with. This type of fire extinguisher has limited ability to combat common types of fires from combustibles like paper, wood, fiberglass and electrical wiring - the materials used in most RVs.
            CO2 fire extinguishers use carbon dioxide gas and are very heavy. They are primarily used around electrical equipment and some flammable liquids. You should avoid using this type of extinguisher on computer equipment as is very cold and can harm electronic components. It should not be used outdoors as the wind can blow it away easily.
            Some RVs have had Halon extinguishing systems installed in the engine compartment. To extinguish a fire, Halon deprives the fire of oxygen. Halon is very hazardous to use because it goes through several chemical changes when exposed to a fire. During the heat phase, it changes to hydrogen fluoride, hydrogen chloride, and hydrogen sulphide. During the cool down phase it changes to phosgene gas. Halon engine fire suppression systems are not effective in RVs since the bottom of the engine compartment is open allowing the wind to blow the Halon away.
            Foam works very well on wood products because of its ability to cling to vertical surfaces and penetrate. It does not work very well on hydrocarbon fires because it does not flow horizontally. Class B AFFF foam is used in military and the fire services and is slightly toxic and corrosive. Firefighters need to be careful that they do not disturb the foam blanket which could allow the vapours to re-ignite.
            ABDK type foam is a wetting agent that combines the benefits of six different chemical technologies in one product. The FireAde 2000 can be used as a firefighting medium, toxic smoke scrubber, hazardous spill control, and bioremediation medium, and it has proven to be the most advanced fire suppression technology currently available. A 16 oz. FireAde2000 has the same fire fighting volume as a dry chemical extinguisher rated 1A 10B, and this is the type of fire extinguisher used extensively in the car racing industry.
            ABDK ColdFire wetting agent has new handheld extinguishers that are refillable by the purchaser. The fine spray from the nozzle provides user safety if used on a class C (electrical) fire. The nozzle also enhances the cooling and soaking characteristics of ColdFire and reduces scattering of the burning materials.
            Some quick tips from the experts: to fight a propane fire, turn off the supply at the tank. 
            Most electrical fires will stop when you turn off the power to the device. 
            When fighting a fire, keep your back to an unobstructed exit and stand six to eight feet away from the fire. Follow the 4-step PASS procedure. Don’t forget the PASSWORD - Pull, Aim, Squeeze, and Sweep - pull the pin, aim low, squeeze the lever above the handle, and sweep from side to side.
            Finally, even if you are able to extinguish the fire on your own, always make sure that the fire department inspects the fire site, even if you are sure it is out.

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